Bob Sirois 
ezOP
(3/13/01 1:48 pm)
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Cork reaming & handle sanding supplies.
Some means of reaming out the cork to match the taper of the blank. The cheapest way is to use a tapered file, however that can be time consuming. I highly recommend you purchase some tapered reamers or make a set of your own. I did the later and used some old junk fiberglass blanks with 40 grit cloth paper cut into very long strips and glued on with contact cement. I used 3 sections of the same blank, which would closely match the tapers I would need for the majority of my work. This worked fine for a few rods, but eventully the heat from the friction causes the blanks to weaken and basically melt. I went to a local machine shop and had them match those old rod reamers in steel and fit in a 3/8 inch drill chuck. I then use contact cement and long narrow ¼" strips of 40 grit cloth sandpaper. I glue these on in a spiral up the rods leaving about a 1/8" gap between. In retrospect, I should have had them put these on a lathe and make them into tapered rasps at the same time. One thing you should remember to do, is to make sure you are running the drill in such a way that the paper is turning so as to not catch the leading edge at the end of the reamer.
 
 
You need some means of securing the rod to the drill for spinning and sanding the handles. I had the same machine shop make me a 4" long radically tapered tail stock center, similar to those used on lathes. This allows me to secure rods with a variaty of butt diameters, using a 1 inch wide reinforced strapping tape, which is very strong if wound back and forth over the tapered stock center and the butt of the rod being sanded. For sanding blocks I glued some of that same 40 grit cloth sandpaper on to 1" x 1" hardwood or plywood blocks in lengths of 4" and 10". These will be used for the rough sanding and shaping of the handles. You will need some 150, 400 and 600 grit sandpaper in 1 inch strips for the finished sanding.
Tight Lines
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