Bob Sirois 
ezOP
(3/18/01 8:31 pm)
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Step #2, glue up the cork sections.
It is impractical to glue up long cork sections and expect to be able to easily ream them out to match the rod taper. For that reason, you want to work with small sections, which are easier to work with. For the sake of argument, let's assume that below the reel seat you want 12 inches of cork and above it, you want 4 inches for the foregrip. I'd try to split the butt section into 3 equal 4 inch sections and the foregrip into the 4th. Mix up a very small (I mean a drop or two each part) about of 2 part epoxy glue and brush just a very small amount on the cork rings. Remember you don't want glue on the bottom of any section, or in between any section. Have the jig we made up for clamping the cork rings handy, wrench to tighten it up, along with some rags and acetone for cleanup.
Once you have the rings stacked with a slight amount of glue between the rings, slide them on the threaded rod. You should have 4 sections at 4 inches each (2 per side), without any glue between the 4 sections or on the ends. If the lengths of the butt and foregrip sections don't work out in such a way that you have equal sections to clamp up, then you might have to do this in a couple steps. Slide the wooden block into place, run the nuts down and tighten up the entire assembly until secure. The cork will compress, so make sure to tight it up well and I suggest after a few turns of the wrench on the nuts; to turn any cork rings that are out of alignement.
Let the entire clamped up assembly set overnight before attempting to ream out the sections; which will be the next step.
Tight Lines
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