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        > Step#3, ream the cork for the handle.
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Bob Sirois 
ezOP
(3/19/01 8:42 am)
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Step#3, ream the cork for the handle.
Take the butt cap and put it on the end of the rod blank, and just in front place a piece of masking tape. Starting back about 1/8 of an inch from that mark start building up a ring of masking tape, until its OD matches the butt caps ID, but very snuggly...not too loose.

Next take your smallest diameter reamer (manual or power) and start to ream out one of the cork sections. Continue with the next largest reamer, until you are close to having the cork ID match the rod OD down at the butt. As you get close, SLOW DOWN & CHECK THE FIT FREQUENTLY, because you don't want to get anxious and find you reamed out too much cork. Slide the section of cork down close to the butt frequently to check the fit. Also check to make sure that your not reaming too much cork from one end or the other, due to the reamer taper not matching the rods closely. I frequently have to take a manual round rasp or reamer and carefully ream out cork at one end or the other, or maybe just in the middle of the section, because the fit on the blank isn't uniform over the length of the section of cork. You want a nice snug fit over the entire length. You shouldn't have to force the section down into place, but it shouldn't slide too easily either.

If this were a spinning rod with a Tenn. handle (no reel seat), you would continue with each section, until all fit snuggly in place progressively moving up from the butt of the rod. If it were either a spinning or conventional, with a reel seat, then you would finish reaming and fitting, only those sections below the reel seat. Hold off reaming out any cork for the foregrip, until the butt and reel seat are actually glued in place.

Tight Lines

Edited by: Bob Sirois  at: 3/19/01 8:48:22 am
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