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        > Step#4, glue up the butt of the handle.
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Bob Sirois 
ezOP
(3/19/01 7:57 pm)
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Step#4, glue up the butt of the handle.
At this point I put my tail stock center in my drill and push the rod butt up the taper as far is it will go. Secure the rod at 2 or 3 points with the roller assemblies and make sure they are clamped to the bench. I take some ½" reinforced packing tape and work it down the tail stock center, up over the tape ring for the butt cap and back down and up the tail stock center. I then spin the rod in the drill and take some 40-grit paper to roughen up the blank up to ¼ inch of the end of the handle.

Mix up enough 2 part epoxy to generously coat the rod blank and the inside of the cork handle. In this picture the rod (this one is a Lamiglass Titanium series with a metal wrap around the graphite blank) is in the supports and all 4 sections of the cork have a liberal coating of epoxy inside. Next I would turn the drill on constant and as slow as it will turn. Take the remaining epoxy and using a brush work it on the blank up to where the cork handle will end. The cork sections are sitting on a metal for sale sign, which are great working surfaces for those messy jobs, because if you forget to wipe them clean with acetone; they scrap clean in a snap. I would have another on the floor and at this point the rod is removed from the supports and the butt is placed on the for sale sign or rag on the floor. The sections of cork are then slide down the rod and into position.

Take a rag soaked in acetone and clean the epoxy off the blank and the cork. Take care to remove all the epoxy, especially on the last cork ring, which will be butted up against the wood block in the clamp. Slide the rod tip through the center hole in the top block and position the butt in the bottom block of wood. Slide the top block down the threaded rods and started tightening the nuts. Get them good and tight and then clean the blank and cork again. One note, cork will compress when clamped, so you should keep this in mind when getting to the foregrip. When you go to roughen the blank at the foregrip, stop a good ½" before the end of the foregrip. Let this set overnight before proceeding to the reel seat and foregrip.

Next we will finish up the handle, by glueing up the reel seat and the foregrip.

Tight Lines

Edited by: Bob Sirois  at: 3/20/01 7:10:04 am
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