圣安东尼奥之花腔|绿调stop 3第三站: King William Historic District
king william district walking tour map
king william区在圣安东尼奥市中心的正南方，圣安东尼奥河的东岸。坐街车在south alamo和Beauregard街的交口处下车，然后从Beauregard街进入king William. Beauregard这一段的绿化没有精心修剪过，所以在人行道上走，需要不是做个拨一拨的动作，好像撩头发一样地撩开头发边上的垂叶。路边的野花也总是突然戳出来，用吓你一跳不偿命的姿态。花香也就同样像个小帮凶似的，蓦然从路口蹦出来。
1840年，一批德国移民迁移到圣安东尼奥，聚居于此，并把主街的名字献给了十九世纪七十年代当政的普鲁士国王威廉一世，这也是king william disrict名字的由来。此区域有着丰富多彩的建筑样式：维多利亚式，殖民地复兴式，罗马复兴式，新古典主义，哥特复兴式等，为了保护它们，当地居民组成了一个king william association，将此地有特色的民居进行编号保护，让它变成了一个活生生的早期圣安东尼奥德国移民的建筑博物馆。现在这里要末有人居住，要末就保护起来成为一个民宅博物馆。如在上海，如果没有变成一个大规模的啤酒夜总会，恐怕也得变成私房菜馆了。
河岸边上就是Washington街上那些居民的后花园。花园里有巨大的草坪，宁静的秩序美，好像如果是周末的下午，随便牵出几只狗，放出一群穿鲸骨裙，撑小圆阳伞的女士和遛着她们的手拿stick，头顶高礼帽的绅士，就完全可以重演秀拉的点彩画：A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte。后花园的草坪上还放着铸铁的桌椅，释放着周日早午餐或者草地烛光晚餐的预感。
走到king William 302号，是 安妮皇后维多利亚式的房子。有百来年的光景，3000平方尺左右。在我逡巡的时候，房里走出来的老妇人就很高兴地来和我搭讪。老妇名叫edith，本是德国人，她前夫的母亲是中国人，她说以前没有空调的时候，夏天就睡在走廊上的。她说you know, like the Chinese.
事后我还是按耐不住好奇地到trip advisor上搜索了一下这个edith婆婆开的家庭旅馆。果然是个好冷清的旅馆。从04年开始，每年就只有一个点评，而且每个点评都只给了五星中的一星，直到去年才有人好心地打了三星，并附上了一个很八卦地居住心得，还提到了她的儿子呢！看时就不时会心点点头，因为实在实在是很edith啊。。。
点评摘录如下：
07年点评：
My wife and I had one of the greatest vacations of our life while staying here both because of and in spite of this place. If you are not put off by paying money to stay in a place that has a very lived in feel, that is less then tidy but yet not dirty then this is not for you. It's kind of like going to stay with your very eccentric German Aunt. Edith, the proprietor, is full of great, sometimes unbelievable, stories of both her life and San Antonio. I think her guests are few and far between so you may have the whole place to yourself like we did. She lays out a wicked breakfast each morning including fresh fruit, baked goods, sausage, bacon, eggs, fresh juice etc. I can honestly see where the comments from these other travelers are absolutely right on the mark for them. The owner is one very unusual person and not the typical picture of hospitality. Her son stopped by one morning and they were arguing loudly in the next room for a good part of breakfast. It was unusual but unforgettable in its own way. I just wanted to put in my two cents because I think if you are someone who likes eccentric people and really funky places this may be for you. We stayed in Lynnie’s room which had its own private bath. We looked at all the rooms while there and they all seemed great.
Yes there is a vicious dog next door on a heavy chain that sometimes doesn't seem heavy enough. Yes the porch is a cluttered mess. Yes the garden is overgrown in the front yard and the house is in disrepair. I don't know that anyone will be persuaded to go here after reading my review, but for the right people it could be just what you're looking for.
05年的一个点评：
These people are horrible!!!Rating is less than terrible. I was considering making reservations for a two night stay there so called her. She was very curt and gave me the impression that she didnt have the time or inclination to answer any questions. She very abruptly gave me the rates then quickly hung up on me. Thinking she was maybe just having a bad day, I waited until the next day and again called to ask if she was located near a trolly stop and to inquire about parking - whether off-street on on . She again was extremely rude!!!!Said I called yesterday and why was I calling again today. I said " Sorry I bothered you" and hung up. This " lady " sounds like she is mad at the worll and - who knows- could very well be. I would not stay there on a bet.
04年的一个点评
We stayed at 1902 Classic Charm B & B in Sarah's Room for 2 nites May 15 & 16 2004. We paid $109.00 each nite. It was an awful experience. We were all alone the first nite, and the second nite was the same. Edith should not be allowd to operate a bed and breakfast.
Email This To a Friend
Topic Commands
Click to receive email notification of replies 
Click to stop receiving email notification of replies